Roseau, Dominica: Your Guide to This Vibrant Capital City

You’ve made it to Dominica – congratulations!  It’s one of the lesser visited islands in the Caribbean and, whilst it doesn’t boast the typical long, white sandy beaches found on neighboring Caribbean islands, it is a destination that can redefine your idea of what a Caribbean vacation can – or should – be.

Dominica is an independent country in the eastern Caribbean that forms part of the Windward Islands chain in the Lesser Antilles archipelago.  It’s wedged in between the French islands of Guadelupe to the north and Martinique to the south, with the Dominica Cruise Port located on the southwestern coast of the country in Roseau, the country’s capital city.  From the moment your ship docks right in the heart of this city, known for its colonial history and modern Caribbean vibe, you’ll feel the pulse of a place unlike anywhere else.

For those of you cruising to Dominica, we’ve written a comprehensive guide for your day on shore, as well as detailed guides to the Morne Trois Pitons National Park and Titou Gorge.  This article here provides a deeper dive into the vibrant capital city of Dominica: Roseau.

Note:  A reminder, fellow adventurers, that Dominica should not be confused with the Dominican Republic (which is a completely separate country and almost 600 miles (6 hours by air) from Dominica). 

Quick Tips

Here are some insider tips to help you make the most of your visit to Roseau, Dominica.

• The port of Roseau has everything you need to get your day started on the island: shopping, dining, watering holes, last-minute excursion opportunities, and even free wifi!
• Roseau is compact and its historic streets and main attractions are easily explored on foot.
• Take a morning hike up Morne Bruce, a hillside neighborhood that offers incredible panoramic views over Roseau.
• Swing by the Dominica Museum to learn more about Dominica’s complex and fascinating history.
• Stop in at the famed Fort Young Hotel for some seaside al fresco dining, duty-free shopping and local entertainment.
• Don’t miss Old Market Square, brimming with local stalls selling souvenirs and fresh produce, and packed with history.
• Take a small side detour to the Neg Mawon Emancipation Monument, which pays homage to the African slaves and maroons who were brought to Dominica and fought desperately for their freedom.
• Enjoy a quiet stroll through the peaceful, lush greenery of the Dominica Botanical Gardens.
• Try some of the local cuisine, a healthy blend of African, French, Caribbean (in particular, Kalinago) and Asian flavors.
• Sit at the bar at Ruins Rock Cafe and work your way through some of their cocktails and famous bush rums.

Follow these tips and you’ll be ready to visit Roseau, Dominica and enjoy your day ashore!

Plan Your Trip

What Amenities Are Available to Visitors in the Port of Roseau?

As you dock in the capital, you’ll find yourself just a few steps away from many of Roseau’s main attractions.  The port of Roseau offers visitors numerous opportunities for shopping, dining, drinking, and arranging last-minute tours and excursions.  Free wifi is also available in the port, as well as a handy and well-stocked tourist information center directly across the street once you exit the pier through the small gates.

There are no public toilets at the pier, though there are some to the right of the building that houses the tourist information center and Dominica Museum (note there is a cost to use these facilities). 

Exploring Downtown Roseau

One of the first things you’ll come across as you enter the port are dozens of local tour vendors – stop to chat with the friendly locals and see if there’s a tour that fits your time, interest and budget.  Once you’ve locked that in place (or if you already have an excursion planned for the day), it’s time to wander the city!

Roseau may not be a bustling metropolis like other Caribbean capitals – but that’s precisely what makes it so very special.  And indeed, exploring Roseau is an excellent way to start your day in Dominica.  Walk the colorful streets where French, British and African influences blend as one, as it’s here you’ll find everything from local crafts at Old Market Square, to local restaurants (do you like seafood?  Stop in at the renowned Lobster Palace!), to waterfront views at the famed Fort Young Hotel. 

Getting Around Roseau

As soon as you step off your cruise ship at the Dominica Cruise Port you’ll find yourself literally in the heart of Roseau.  The city is compact and its historic streets and main attractions are easily explored on foot – a small town feel with hidden old-world charm and modern energy around every corner.  We recommend you consider visiting some of the attractions we detail below, taking the time to walk the city on your own terms, and for as long or as little as you’d like.

If you’re like Beck, there’s no need for a destination – just take any old street that fancies you and you’ll immediately get a feel for the true Dominica.  If that’s not quite your style, book a walking tour and take in some of the city’s historic sites, or follow our recommendations below.

Things to See and Do in Roseau, Dominica

Morne Bruce

For the more active travelers out there, consider starting your day nice and early, before the scorching sun starts to beat down on Roseau, with a hike up Morne Bruce.  Morne Bruce is a hillside neighborhood that offers incredible panoramic views of Roseau, the surrounding countryside, and the Caribbean Sea far below.

Named after James Bruce, a captain of the Royal Engineers who designed many of Dominica’s forts in the 1700s, Morne Bruce was once home to the military garrison that protected Roseau from the French.  Today, only bare remains of the original fort can be seen – but the climb to the top is still worth it!

You can access the Morne Bruce viewpoint and large cross from the Dominica Cruise Port via Valley Road, by weaving your way through the smaller streets of downtown Roseau, else via Jack’s Walk Trail (a trail that begins in the Dominica Botanical Gardens).

After your morning hike up Morne Bruce, dive into the history of Roseau by visiting historic landmarks that include the Dominica Museum, Fort Young Hotel and the Old Market Square.

Dominica Museum

Directly across the road from the cruise port pier you’ll find the Dominica Museum, the national museum of Dominica.  This is a great place to begin your walking tour of the city, as it will afford you a deeper insight into Dominica’s complex and fascinating history.  Take this newfound knowledge of the island with you to help you better frame the rest of your time exploring the island.

Today the museum is housed in a building that dates back to 1810 (and once housed the city’s main post office) and contains general historical artifacts related to the cultural, social and indigenous history, and archaeology and geology, of Dominica.  You’ll find the museum’s exhibits (including photographs, dugout canoes, colonial furniture, indigenous pottery and tools, and flora and fauna specimens) upstairs, laid across three small rooms: it’s certainly worth a short visit.  All the displays are well labelled and the entry fee is only US$3 per person.

Fort Young Hotel

A breezy 3-minute walk south of the Dominica Museum you’ll find the Fort Young Hotel and Dive Resort.  A favorite amongst locals and visitors alike, this historic landmark stands as a reminder of Dominica’s colonial past and affords guests a full-service experience with stunning waterfront views, delicious lunches, and sumptuous cocktails.

First built in 1699, the Fort Young Hotel has been at the heart of Dominica’s story for hundreds of years.  Today it remains the country’s only all-inclusive boutique-style accommodation, with seaside al fresco dining, duty-free shopping and local entertainment.

Old Market Square

The Old Market of Roseau, also known as Old Market Plaza and Dawbiney Market Square, is an historic landmark located on Church Street, right in the middle of (and just behind) the Dominica Museum and Fort Young Hotel.  In colonial times this was a bustling market, a central gathering place for commerce and culture, the site of political meetings, and a place where all the major trade (including that of slaves) between Dominica and surrounding Caribbean islands took place.  Public executions were also held here.

In the late 1980s, the Old Market was renovated as a vibrant cultural and craft center and in 2014 the market was transformed into an international monument, with a call for a perpetual flame to honor all those who perished under slavery (as well as those who fought against it).  Although the flame has yet to be installed, today the cobblestoned market remains a prominent place of interest for locals and tourists alike, an integral part of Roseau’s urban and cultural identity.  It contains numerous stalls selling everything from souvenir t-shirts to spices, handicrafts and fresh produce.

Visiting the market affords visitors an opportunity to experience a unique blend of history and culture, and a glimpse into Dominica’s complex history, whilst also shopping for some delicious street food and those one-of-a-kind souvenirs to take home with you.

Neg Mawon Emancipation Monument

Once you’ve spent some time in the market, follow Old Street east down towards Pebble’s Park and then turn left on Dame Mary Eugenia Charles Blvd.  In the middle of the roundabout, at the other side of the park, you’ll be greeted by the Neg Mawon Emancipation Monument.

Unveiled on August 1, 2013, amidst the sound of conch shells and beating drums to mark the 175th anniversary of Dominica’s emancipation from slavery, this 84-inch (213cm) bronze statue by Franklyn Zamore, features the muscular figure of a shirtless self-emancipated man with broken shackles and chains around his wrists and neck: “negre maron” (or black maroon).  The monument pays homage, in a tangible way, to the African slaves and maroons who were brought to Dominica and fought desperately for their freedom, and symbolizes this very fight, triumph over adversities, the maturity of a nation, and a sign of resilience and strength.  It is because of these maroons that Dominicans are today able to enjoy their freedom.

The monument was funded by the Government of Dominica and serves to ensure the story of Dominica’s ancestors – of those who helped to shape Dominica’s history – remains in the island’s collective memory – now and in the future.  Similar monuments also exist in Barbados, Guyana, Jamaica and Haiti.  When you visit, take a moment to stand beside the monument, look up at the blue sky above you, and then spend a few more minutes reading the powerful words on the plaque beside the statue.

Dominica Botanical Gardens

Less than a kilometer (a pleasant 10-minute walk) from the Dominica Cruise Port you’ll find the Dominica Botanical Gardens, affording visitors the opportunity to wander through lush tropical plants, amongst towering trees, and along serene, kid-friendly walking trails.  A peaceful walk through the gardens is a great way to begin your connection with Dominica’s natural beauty and take some time for yourself, outside the hustle and bustle of nearby attractions and local life.

Once known as one of the finest botanical gardens in the Caribbean, the Dominica Botanical Gardens unfortunately suffered severe damage in the late 1970s when Hurricane David swept across the island.  One of the must-see attractions within the gardens is the African Baobab tree that fell and crushed a yellow American school bus (it was empty at the time, don’t worry!) during the hurricane.  Make sure to learn more about the longer (and very interesting) story behind this bus!

Today, the Dominica Botanical Gardens remain a center of cultural life in Roseau and of conservation research on Dominica.  The gardens are part of Dominica’s ecotourism efforts and there is no entry fee for visitors.

Food and Drink: A Taste of Dominica

Whilst exploring Roseau, take a moment to savor some of the country’s local cuisine.  Because what better way to immerse yourself even deeper into the country’s culture than through its food?

Dominica’s cuisine is a healthy blend of African, French, Caribbean (in particular, Kalinago) and Asian flavors, and features unique combinations of fresh, local ingredients you may not find in other parts of the Caribbean.  The island’s rich volcanic soil permits the growth of many foods, including soursop, bananas, oranges and grapefruit.

Take a seat at a local restaurant in Roseau, or visit the Old Market Square to try some of the island’s fresh produce and local favorites that include accra (fried fish fritters), sancocho (a meat and vegetable based stew), callaloo soup (a leafy green soup, often mixed with seafood) and codfish sandwich.  Enjoy a tropical drink at a local bar or test your comfort zone by sampling some of Dominica’s wildest, most exotic “bush rums” (traditional rum infused with medicinal plants, fruits and spices) at Ruins Rock Cafe.  Another great option, with superb ocean views and popular amongst locals and visitors alike, is the historic Fort Young Hotel in downtown Roseau.

Want a deeper dive into the island’s cuisine?  More of a “hands on” experience in the culinary workings of the country?  Consider taking a cooking tour or a cooking class to learn more about Dominica’s culinary traditions – a reflection of its diverse history and vibrant people – whilst also trying your own hand at making some of its local dishes. 

Entertainment in Roseau

Looking for some local entertainment during your time on the Nature Island?  Whether you’ve a spare half hour or an entire afternoon available to you before your cruise ship sets sail, there’s really only one place you need to head: Ruins Rock Cafe.  Ruins Rock Cafe, a 1-minute walk from the cruise port up King George V Street, and housed within the ruins of a burnt-out old Roseau building, is an authentic local bar and restaurant in downtown Roseau.

Whilst the food may not be the best you’ll find on the island (but it’s also definitely not the worst!), Ruins Rock Cafe is a great place for a quick bite or a relaxing meal, service with a smile, the opportunity to mingle with locals and other travelers alike, and the inviting, laid back atmosphere it provides.  Staff are hardworking and friendly, and there’s usually a live band playing at most hours of the day – the entertainment in general is usually of a very high calibre.  You can usually hear the bar from the pier – just follow the sound!  Once you’ve settled in, you may even find yourself being pulled from your table to join in a lively conga line.

Work your way through some cocktails and sample the cafe’s famous bush rums – which we want to warn you in advance, are not for the faint of heart!  It’s possible that your cocktail or rum punch may come complete with an exotic creepy-crawly at the bottom…  but not to fear, if that isn’t for you, they also serve all the less-bizarre local favorites too!

The live music, the always-present laughter, and the camaraderie you’ll find at Ruins Rock Cafe are just as incredible as any sight you’ll see in Dominica.  Here you can also buy coffees and teas, spices, essential oils and other local artwork, nearly all of which are produced onsite.

Insider tip.  The live music at Ruins Rock Cafe is usually very loud.  If you’re seeking a quiet respite or don’t enjoy loud spaces, this may not be the best bar/restaurant for you.

Final Thoughts

There’s no denying it: Dominica is a country unlike any other island in the Caribbean.  And taking the time to explore its charming capital city is a must.

As you disembark your ship, the capital city of Roseau beckons, welcoming you with warm, open arms and inviting you to begin exploring everything this magical island has to offer.  Wander the quiet, sun-dappled streets of the capital, the air filled with the scent of tropical flowers and the friendly chatter of locals passing by.  And then, when you’re feeling all walked out, take a moment to sit and enjoy a glass of local bush rum and some accra or a codfish sandwich.

Let’s start planning your trip to help you make the most of your time in Roseau,Dominica!