Gjirokaster, Albania: A Guide to the Top Things to Do
Written By: Global Grit and Glam
February 2025
View from Kerculla Resort (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Are you up for visiting one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in Europe? No, it’s not London … Rome … or Amsterdam. You’ll find this amazing city in southern Albania. Gjirokaster (sometimes written as Gjirokastra), Albania, is calling. It offers visitors history, culture, and a stunning setting, all rolled into one.
Cobblestone streets (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 2005 and known today as the “Stone City”, Gjirokaster will mesmerize you with its traditional Albanian architecture, quaint cobblestone streets, and exquisite mountain views. Remember not to miss the Old Town of Gjirokaster, with its old bazaar and Ottoman architecture. This city is where Ottoman architecture meets communist history, and around every corner, you’ll find a different story being told.
Read more about our time in Gjirokaster as empty-nesters, adventurers, and travel lovers. We took our unique blend of grit and glam to a new level here to explore Gjirokaster in a way that brought together our different travel interests and comforts and created memories that we are confident will last a lifetime.
So, let’s get into our Gjirokaster, Albania, guide for 2025!
View down toward the Old Bazaar (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Quick Tips
Old Town cobblestones (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Here are some quick tips to help you make the most of your visit to Gjirokaster, Albania.
Safety: Gjirokaster is a very safe city in European terms, but as with most places frequented by tourists, always keep an eye on your belongings and don’t flash around cash, expensive jewelry, or fancy camera equipment.
Budget: Albania is relatively inexpensive compared to many European destinations. When creating your budget for your visit to Gjirokaster, make sure to take into account accommodation, food/drinks, transportation, tips, souvenirs, and entrance fees.
Cash is King (or Queen!): We’ve said it once, and we’ll say it again. Make sure you take cash with you when visiting Gjirokaster (or anywhere in Albania, for that matter!). Cash is used extensively (if not solely) throughout the region, so make sure you always have Albanian Lek with you, whether paying for your accommodation or a local meal. You might find some more prominent and/or fancier hotels and restaurants accept credit cards, but be forewarned they will often add an additional 4%-10% service charge to the final cost. You will find currency exchange booths spread throughout the Old Town (we used one near the entrance to the Old Town and discovered its rates to be exceptional), but hours may be limited, so ensure you plan.
Follow these tips and recommendations, and you’ll be ready to enjoy a fantastic visit to Gjirokaster, Albania!
Plan Your Trip
Local Crafts (Gjirokaster, Albania)
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Gjirokaster: The Low-Down
Stone City (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster, Albania, is one of those rare places that will have you awestruck from the moment you arrive (yes, even for someone like Beck, who has visited over 140 countries!). Gjirokaster’s roots go deep, reflecting Albania’s Ottoman past, communist era, and the mix of resultant cultures that have shaped it into what we see today.
View from Hotel Alara’s rooftop (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Giving Gjirokaster the nickname “Stone City” is not just a figure of speech – it’s a fact. The city encompasses an abundance of traditional stone houses that have survived centuries, many of which are now cultural monuments. The large wooden shutters of each building look out over the city’s steep slopes, creating a timeless skyline that’s as mesmerizing as it is photogenic.
The Core of a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Kerculla Resort open window views (Gjirokaster, Albania)
In 2005, Gjirokaster was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a recognition of its unique character and conservation efforts. Walking through the cobblestone streets of this magnificent city, you’ll be transported back to the 17th century, where the beauty of its fortified houses provide visitors a glimpse into the prosperity and pride of Gjirokaster’s wealthy families from long ago.
Whether you’re looking up at the Castle of Gjirokaster – a fortress high above the hilltops – or walking through the narrow streets of the Old Town, Gjirokaster shares with visitors a living example of how history and modernism can coexist. Local culture is alive and well here, and Gjirokaster’s residents are passionate about preserving their heritage, whilst also welcoming visitors from all corners of the globe.
A Brief History of Gjirokaster
Old Town (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster’s rich and complex history goes back to the 4th century BC, and the stone walls of the Castle of Gjirokaster were built between the 6th and 12th Century, providing proof of the city’s continuity. This being said, archaeological findings suggest the area has been inhabited since at least 2000 BC, making it a site of continuous human settlement for thousands of years.
Traditional Albanian dress (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Despite evidence of much earlier human settlement, the city’s name did not first appear in historical records until the mid-1300s, when it was known as Argyrocastron (you may also see it written in certain texts as Argirocastro), which means “silver castle” in medieval Greek. This name hints at the city’s importance, as well as its gray stone architecture.
Ottoman slippers (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Over the centuries, Gjirokaster has been shaped by different empires, most notably the Ottoman Empire which left its mark on the city’s architecture and culture. As you walk through the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, you’ll witness the layers of history that have made Gjirokaster a living museum of Albania’s past.
Gjirokaster’s Top Attractions
Colorful canopy, Old Town (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster offers visitors numerous attractions that put the city’s history, culture and natural beauty on display. Here are a few of the must-sees we recommend you consider during your visit to the Stone City.
Gjirokaster’s Old Town
Old Town (Gjirokaster, Albania)
The first stop on our itinerary was Gjirokaster’s Old Town and it was, without question, the highlight of our time in this part of Albania – you simply cannot miss it! Once we eventually found it (we were walking down from a hilltop high above the city and got a little lost along our way…), we discovered the Old Town was small enough to easily walk around on foot.
Steep Old Town streets (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Whilst the cobblestone streets are steep, and it can feel a little touristy at times, it’s a great way to soak in the city’s history and charm, especially as you’re surrounded by traditional buildings that cannot be replicated. Many of the top attractions, heritage homes, museums and historic landmarks are within walking distance of the Old Town, so wearing good shoes is a must! We also encourage you to hit up some of the back streets, outside of Rruga Alqi Kondi and Rruga Gjin Zenebisi – you’ll find wonderful hidden cafes and small stores, welcoming you with open arms and big Albanian smiles.
Gjirokaster Castle
Gjirokaster Castle (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Above the city sits the imposing Castle of Gjirokaster (or Kalaja e Gjirokastrës), a 6th-century fortress. One of the oldest castles in the region, it not only provides visitors a glimpse into Albania’s history, but also offers stunning views of Gjirokaster and the surrounding Drino Valley.
Shopping in the Old Town (Gjirokaster, Albania)
The walls of the castle, its narrow streets, and its various viewpoints are a photographer’s paradise and a historian’s utopia. For example, during World War II, the castle was a notorious prison for political prisoners, and as such plays a large role in Albania’s socio-political landscape of the 21st century.
Castle walls (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Inside the castle you’ll find the Museum of Armaments, opened in 1971 as a national museum for weapons (rifles, cannons and other artifacts) from the first and second world wars. It also houses the prison cells from World War II, offering additional unique insight into Albania’s military history, alongside communist era artifacts in a portion of the museum dedicated solely to Albania’s struggle during the Cold War.
Make sure not to miss the clock tower, erected by Ali Pasha of Tepelena in the 19th century, and another of the castle’s landmarks.
The Cold War Tunnel
Also inside the Castle of Gjirokaster is a hidden gem of the communist regime: the Cold War Tunnel. Built in secret in the early 1970s as a hideout for the government during times of crisis, this tunnel runs under the castle for 800m and has 59 rooms. Today, you can visit this eerie, historical tunnel to get a feel for life during the tense communist era.
The Gjirokaster Obelisk
The Gjirokaster Obelisk, situated on the city's highest point, promotes Albanian language and education. It’s located near the first Albanian school opened in Gjirokaster in 1908, a high school where the famous Albanian writer Ismail Kadare studied. The obelisk offers visitors fantastic views of the city and can be a wonderfully peaceful place to simply sit back and enjoy the city’s cultural heritage.
Gjirokaster Museum
The Gjirokaster Museum, housed in one of the most beautiful galleries within the fortress walls, opened 2012 inside the castle walls. The museum provides an overview of Gjirokaster’s history, from ancient times through the communist era: exhibits cover the Ottoman period to the cultural impact of Albanian communist politician and dictator Enver Halil Hoxha’s rule from 1944 until he died in 1985. The museum is a must-see for history lovers and those wishing to better understand Gjirokaster’s complex heritage.
Local handicrafts (Gjirokaster, Albania)
The Ethnographic Museum
Another way to learn more about Gjirokaster’s history and culture is to visit the Ethnographic Museum, housed in the Palorto Quarter on the site of Enver Halil Hoxha’s birth house. This museum provides visitors an excellent insight into Albanian life during the 19th and 20th centuries, housing a treasure trove of cultural artifacts, traditional costumes, textiles and household objects.
The museum provides an informative and fun education offering, with each exhibit well curated and providing visitors a deeper understanding of the customs and traditions that have come to shape Gjirokaster’s identity. It is certainly a must-visit for anyone interested in learning more about the social history of the region.
Gjirokaster’s Traditional Houses
Traditional houses (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster’s stone houses are part of the city’s identity and what makes it such a unique place to visit in this part of the world. Over 500 old stone houses still stand today, each one a cultural monument.
Built during the Ottoman Empire, these houses were once a symbol of wealth and power, during a time when Gjirokaster was a strong trade center and families would invest in grand houses to flaunt their status.
Two traditional houses not to miss:
Built in 1823, Skenduli House is the most well-preserved house in Gjirokaster’s Old City. The house boasts a fantastic collection of wooden carvings and takes you on a journey to the traditional Albanian way of life. To this day, the house remains in the Skenduli family, and a family member will provide you with a personal tour of the house (pretty neat, right?). Each room unveils a significant story, with one of the highlights being the ‘wedding room’.
The Zekate House, with its two towers and grand design, is a superb example of the typical tower house that belonged to the wealthiest families in Gjirokaster during the 19th century. This symbol of the city’s wealth during Ottoman times shares with visitors exemplary architectural details and a glimpse into part of this fascinating city's history.
These traditional houses, with their wooden shutters, large windows and thick stone walls, are the essence of Gjirokaster’s architecture and a deep connection to the city’s past.
Bazaar Mosque
Bazaar Mosque (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Set beneath the Castle of Gjirokaster at the beginning of the Old Town’s uphill path that leads to the castle, is the Bazaar Mosque (also known as the Memi Bey Mosque). This beautiful 17th-century relic is the only remaining mosque from the Ottoman era and a potent reminder of the city’s rich cultural heritage. Miraculously, the Bazaar mosque was spared from destruction during the communist regime of the 1960s and has remained intact and untouched since that time.
Visitors are welcome to take in the wonderful details of the Bazaar Mosque and then enjoy a local drink or sample some local cuisine at the Te Kube, set in an old building below the mosque (that’s pretty cool, eh?). What a great way to take a break from all the sightseeing and perfectly combine history and Albanian hospitality in one stop!
Day Trips from Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster offers visitors plenty to see, but if you’re keen to explore more that southern Albania has to offer, make some time to explore the surrounding area too.
The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
Located on the main road between Sarande and Gjirokastra, and just 36km (22mi) from Gjirokaster’s Old Town, lies the Blue Eye, the most well known and unique karst source in Albania. The cold water in this natural spring is so clear you can see all the way to the bottom – and it’s so blue that it resembles a sapphire. The Blue Eye is a popular place for swimming, picnicking and relaxing.
The Field of Bunkers
A strange and ubiquitous sight in southern Albania are its concrete military bunkers. Just 20 minutes south of Gjirokaster’s Old Town, these more than 700 bunkers are spread throughout an area known as the Field of Bunkers, numbering 5.7 for every square kilometer (or 14.7 per square mile) and are a remnant of Albania’s Cold War era. These concrete structures were built to protect against the perceived threats at the time, and are today a reminder of the communist regime that dominated much of Albania’s history.
The City of Tepelena: Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct
30km (18.6mi) north of Gjirokaster along State Highway 4 lies the Benca (Ali Pasha) Aqueduct. Built at the beginning of the 19th century by Ottomanm ruler Ali Pasha Tepelena to supply fresh water to the Castle of Tepelena, this aqueduct is a feat of engineering indeed.
Accessed via a scenic but uneven walk (make sure to wear sturdy shoes!), this historic aqueduct offers visitors spectacular views of the countryside. It’s also worth considering a wee visit to the quaint town of Tepelena itself, a quiet place to relax in the Albanian countryside.
Food and Drink in Gjirokaster
Pizzerie Bazzar (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster is a foodie’s paradise, providing visitors a plethora of opportunities to taste traditional Albanian cuisine that reflects the city’s Ottoman and Mediterranean heritage. During our 24 hours in the Old Town, we visited five different cafes/restaurants for either a quick drink, snack or sit-down meal, and highly recommend them all! The local dishes of Gjirokaster are a celebration of fresh ingredients and dated recipes, with every meal an experience in and of itself.
Traditional Albanian Cuisine
Qifqi (Gjirokaster, Albania)
If you come to Gjirokaster and don’t try one of the most traditional of all Albanian dishes – qifqi – then we might just have to have a quiet word with you … because it’s an absolute must! Qifqi is a baked rice ball flavored with dried or fresh mint leaves and black pepper. We had our first chance to try qifqi at the second restaurant at which we sat down, Bar Restorant Vojsava, one of the many restaurants that line one of the four main cobbled streets in the Old Town. It’s a local favorite and proof of the region’s culinary creativity – and though a tad more sticky than I was expecting, we absolutely loved it!
"Mix Traditional": shapkat, sarma, meatballs, qahi, laropite, and qifqi (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Another popular dish is oshaf, a traditional Gjirokaster dessert made with sheep’s milk, sugar, and dried figs. It is the perfect way to end a meal and provides a taste of Gjirokaster’s gastronomic heritage.
Komiteti Cafe (Gjirokaster, Albania)
For a larger meal, try tave kosi, one of Albania’s national dishes. Mike tried tave kosi—a dish of lamb and rice baked in yogurt and eggs, often seasoned with salt, pepper, and other spices—and almost returned for more—it was so fresh and delicious!
Komiteti Cafe (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Most of these dishes are available at any of the local restaurants in the Old Town, including Komiteti Cafe – a cute cafe we stumbled upon in the back streets of the Old Bazaar with an extensive drink menu and super funky decor – and Bar Restorant Rrapi, where we managed to find a spare outdoor table for a late lunch at this very popular restaurant, and were most impressed with the young waitresses’ excellent command of the English language.
Bar Restorant Rrapi (Gjirokaster, Albania)
These cafes and restaurants will provide you an authentic dining experience where you can enjoy the unique flavors of Gjirokaster in a cozy atmosphere.
Planning Your Trip to Gjirokaster
Local crafts (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Now that you’re (hopefully!) sold on a visit to Gjirokaster in southern Albania, let’s get into some of the practicalities of your visit that will help make it a smooth one. From the best time to visit … to accommodation recommendations … and everything in between … we’ve got you covered!
Best Time to Visit Gjirokaster
Wall art (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Choosing the right season to visit Gjirokaster makes all the difference.
Whilst we chose to visit in the Summer based on our work schedules, Spring (March to May) and Fall/Autumn (September to November) undoubtedly offer the best times to visit: these shoulder seasons offer visitors mild temperatures, fewer crowds, and the opportunity to see the city at its most beautiful.
In Spring, the surrounding hills of Gjirokaster are cloaked in a dense green, and in Fall the landscape becomes a golden brilliance, enveloping the city in a myriad bright colors to match perfectly the beauty of the Stone City. During these seasons, you’ll generally have uninterrupted views, without the bump and hassle of the larger Summer crowds: it’s during these times that it’s easier to find quiet moments to stop, take in everything around you, take more photos, or just soak in the atmosphere of the Old Town.
Local craftsmanship (Gjirokaster, Albania)
If you visit in the Summer as we did, be prepared for warmer temperatures and much larger crowds – but with some advance planning, it can still be a fantastic experience for visitors (as we discovered!).
The early mornings and late evenings of the Summer are much cooler, making it perfect for sightseeing and enjoying local cuisine, often before many other tourists have even started their day. We find early mornings also provide the best opportunities to engage more deeply with locals – when they have more time to stop and chat – whether it be at one of Gjirokaster’s many cafes or restaurants, or simply connecting with your hotel staff.
Of course, if you choose to head out in the middle of a hot summer’s day (and yes, we did this too!), make sure to pack lots of water (though it is relatively cheap at any of the small grocery stores and cafes around town), and sun protection (a hat, light shawl to cover your shoulders, and sunscreen) so you’ll stay comfortable during the hottest hours of the day.
Getting to Gjirokaster
Getting there (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster is located in southern Albania and is connected to many major Albanian cities.
From Tirana
If you’re coming from Tirana, the capital of Albania, you can take the bus or rent a car and drive through the picturesque hills and small villages of the country. Almost 240km (149 mi) from Tirana, the Gjirokaster bus stop is one of the main drop-off points for visitors arriving in the city and is conveniently located at the entrance to the Old Town.
As an excellent budget option, buses from Tirana run regularly to Gjirokaster. However, the journey can be cumbersome in both logistics and time. It can take anywhere from 5.5 to 10.5 hours, and you can expect to change buses at least once along the way.
Although a more expensive option, renting a car from Tirana saves time and provides an excellent opportunity to go at your own pace and explore additional sites along the way to Gjirokaster, travelling by private vehicle drops the travel time from Tirana to just under 3 hours without stops.
From Sarande
If you’re visiting Gjirokaster from Sarande, just 52km (32mi) to the southwest along the Albanian coastline, the coastal road is worth the trip alone. Mike was admittedly a tad apprehensive when we chose this route, but we both agreed this scenic drive was truly spectacular! The road winds through stunning mountainous landscapes and provides plenty of opportunities to not only take in the view, but also stop at some unique sites along the way for photos.
Where to Stay in Gjirokaster
Kerculla Resort (Gjirokaster, Albania)
Gjirokaster’s Old Town offers visitors accommodation options for all budgets and styles. We chose to stay at Kerculla Resort thanks so a free night Beck had wracked up with Hotels.com – and knowing Mike’s strong desire for something a little more luxurious on our last night in Albania, this was the perfect pick! We arrived at the resort around 10am – too early to check in just yet – so left our luggage at reception and walked into town.
Homemade cherry jam, Kerculla Resort (Gjirokaster, Albania)
We received a lovely welcome upon our return around 3.45pm — friendly staff and a homemade cherry jam welcome snack (which was super delicious!), apparently made from their very own cherry trees! Our room was gorgeous (we seriously couldn’t fault it!) though much closer to the pool than we were expecting when booking. The bed was very comfortable and we both slept well.
Gjirokaster Castle from Kerculla Resort (Gjirokaster, Albania)
But we agree the breakfast buffet (included in our stay) and its accompanying views made our stay worthwhile. We were saddened we only stayed the one night (24 hours), and highly recommend you consider staying longer if you can, to make best use of the entire resort. Oh, and if you have your own car, we have one little hint about getting to the resort: don’t 100% believe Google Maps .. it will try to take you up cobbled staircases!
Alsara Guesthouse owner (Gjirokaster, Albania)
We also highly recommend the Alsara Guesthouse, right in the heart of the Old Town. Whilst we didn’t stay here, we had the honor of meeting the friendly and welcoming owner on our walk down to the Old Town, who picked us up like two little lost puppies and was incredibly generous in guiding us down the hill and sharing with us some of Gjirokaster’s history. Born and raised here, he also shared with us some of the town's highlights, directed us to where we wanted to go, and then, at the end of our visit, was beyond gracious in offering to order us a taxi back up to our resort.
View from atop Alsara Guesthouse (Gjirokaster, Albania)
As we highly recommend this gentleman as a genuine human being, we encourage visitors to take a moment to visit his restaurant and hotel, especially the view from the rooftop, which is the best Beck saw from the entire city!
Below are some other options, for all budget levels, you may wish to consider for your accommodation needs during your time in Gjirokaster.
Luxury: for those of you who may be seeking a splash of glitz and glam, look no further than either Hotel Argjiro or Kerculla Resort. Both offer luxury facilities and stunning views of the Old Town and the surrounding landscape. Historic exteriors, comfortable rooms, and an extra splash of modernism, make these hotels perfect for a special occasion.
Mid-range: looking for comfort without the price tag? Consider Alsara Guesthouse, which we mentioned earlier in this blog. Located on the edge of the Old Town, its proximity to the numerous attractions and eateries in Gjirokaster is unbeatable and the hospitality unrivaled.
Budget: Stone City Hostel and Bed & Breakfast Kotoni are affordable and cozy, and both receive excellent reviews across the board. They’re ideal for budget travelers who want to experience local hospitality without spending a fortune.
Final Thoughts
Grit and Glam (Gjirokaster, Albania)
From the Castle of Gjirokaster to the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, Gjirokaster offers visitors the perfect blend of culture, history and breathtaking scenery. Whether you’re wandering through back streets lined with ancient Ottoman houses, feasting on traditional Albanian qifqi at a local restaurant, or learning more about Albania’s role in the Cold War as you immerse yourself in one of the many well-curated museums spread throughout the city, you will unquestionably discover that Gjirokaster is a destination for all kinds of travelers.
Make sure to wile away some time in Gjirokaster, Albania. We are confident you will love it as much as we did!
Now … it’s time to plan your trip!
